Lessons in the Dance of Seduction & Despair--It seems impossible to imagine Argentina without thinking of tango, its greatest export to the world. Tango originated with a guitar and violin toward the end of the 19th century and was first danced by working-class men in La Boca, San Telmo, and the port area. Combining African rhythms with the habanera and candombe, it was not the sophisticated dance you know today -- rather, the tango originated in brothels and was accompanied by obscene lyrics.
Increasing waves of immigrants helped the tango make its way to Europe, however, and the dance was internationalized in Paris. With a sense of European approval, Argentine middle and upper classes began to accept the newly refined dance as part of their cultural identity, and the form blossomed under the extraordinary voice of Carlos Gardel, who brought tango to Broadway and Hollywood, and is nothing short of legendary among Argentines. Astor Piazzola further internationalized the tango, elevating it to a more complex form incorporating classical elements.
Tango may be played by anywhere from two musicians to a complete orchestra, but a piano and bandoneón -- an instrument akin to an accordion -- are usually included. If there is a singer, the lyrics might come from one of Argentina's great poets, such as Jorge Luis Borges, Homero Manzi, or Horacio Ferrer. The dance itself is improvised rather than standardized, although it consists of a series of long walks and intertwined movements, usually in eight-step. In the tango, the man and woman glide across the floor as an exquisitely orchestrated duo with early flirtatious movements giving way to dramatic leads and heartfelt turns.
Learning to dance the tango is an excellent way for a visitor to get a sense of what makes the music -- and the dance -- so alluring. Entering a tango salon -- called a salon de baile -- can be intimidating for the novice. The style of tango danced in salons is more subdued than, "show tango." Most respectable dancers would not show up before midnight, giving you the perfect opportunity to sneak in for a group lesson, offered at most of the salons starting around 8 or 9pm. They usually cost between $1 and $3 for an hour; you can request private instruction for between $10 and $20 per hour, depending on the instructor. In summer, the city of Buenos Aires promotes tango by offering free classes in many locations. Visit the nearest tourist information center for updated information.
For additional advice on places to dance and learn tango, get a copy of B.A. Tango or El Tangauta, the city's dedicated tango magazines. One of the best spots to learn is Gricel, La Rioja 1180 (tel. 11/4957-7157), which offers lessons Monday through Friday at 8pm and opens its doors to the city's best dancers on Saturday and Sunday nights. La Galería, Boedo 722 (tel. 11/4957-1829), is open Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday and attracts excellent dancers, many of whom compete professionally. Ideal, Suipacha 384 (tel. 11/4326-1081), is open Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. The dancers here come in all ages and have varied abilities. Ongoing evening lessons are also offered at the Academia Nacional de Tango, Av. de Mayo 833 (tel. 11/4345-6968), which is an institute rather than a tango salon.
