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Guides & Advice > Traveler Advice > Been There Return to innocence:Southern style |
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by Debbie L., Product Tester Day 1: After arriving into Greenville-Spartanburg, South Carolina, we drove 45 minutes up Highway 26 to Asheville, North Carolina. When we arrived in Asheville we were quick to realize that this city of approximately 70,000 inhabitants was all that we had expected, and more! Asheville is a well-hidden oasis in a vast sea of nature. With its distinctive blend of urban sophistication blended with small-town charm, few cities can compete with it. After reading of a colleague's recent trip to this hidden treasure nestled amongst the vistas of the surrounding Blue Ridge Mountains, (depicted in Travelocity's Name Dropping in the Carolinas review), we were eagerly anticipating the rest of the day exploring this most architecturally diverse city. The Montford Historic District boasts a multitude of different types of architecture. Victorian, Greek Revival, Italianate, Queen Anne, Colonial Revival, and Neo-Classical homes sit side-by-side, some from the likes of Bernard Maybeck and Frank Lloyd Wright. Driving slowly through the winding roads of this tree-shaded National Historic-designated neighborhood gave us a glimpse of the past; Montford is home to 15 elegant and colorful bed and breakfast inns. Tranquil gardens with waterfalls, verandahs, and gazebos are scattered throughout the scenic drive amongst the foothills. A leisurely walking tour of the quaint downtown antique shops, specialty shops, and art galleries were marked by the pink granite markers embedded in the sidewalk providing a guidepost to Asheville's diverse past. The Urban Trail tells the story of Asheville's rich history from its origins as an early crossroads for drovers herding livestock to market, through its boom period during the 1920's, to the eclectic downtown that it is today. At the top of the hill on Biltmore Avenue is the "Cafe on the Square," voted the "Best Downtown Eatery" year after year. Open for lunch, dinner, and late-night dining, this black and white Art Deco delight is a unique dining experience whether you choose to sit inside surrounded by the clean look of white linen tablecloths or outside facing the dramatic mountain views. Intrigued by the miniature train running on the ceiling of the spacious dining room, we chose the indoor elegance of this popular, cosmopolitan restaurant. The "Penne Frutti de Mar" featured shrimp and various other seafood offerings served over penne pasta in a light ginger and whole grain mustard sauce. With other delectable choices available such as the "Grilled Portobello" mushroom with a goat cheese dressing served over sauteed spinach with a bed of wild rice as well as "Barbecued Danish Baby Back Ribs" on the menu, the choice was a difficult one for both of us! "Cafe on the Square" also has lighter entrees, salads, and sandwiches for lunch. With our appetite more than satisfied, our next destination was Hot Springs, North Carolina, and the epitome of gracious southern charm, the "Mountain Magnolia Inn." Hot Springs (50 minutes north of Asheville off Highway 25/70) was originally known as Warm Springs until the discovery of a hotter source of mineral water led to the name change. Steeped in the military history of the Civil War, this peaceful Appalachian retreat offers a wide variety of activities including rafting, canoeing, fishing, tubing, swimming, camping, and hiking. Nestled in a valley and surrounded by the Pisgah National Forest where the breath-taking Blue Ridge Mountains join the Great Smokies, Hot Springs will also spoil those of us that want to take a step back in time as well as be pampered. Since the early 1800's the therapeutic waters of the natural hot mineral springs have drawn enthusiasts from all over the world to this tranquil haven of 650 year-round residents. With beautiful Spring Creek running through the town, redbud, dogwood, wild azalea, rhododendron, and mountain laurel are as plentiful as the deer and wild turkey. Even an occasional bear is not unusual in these gorgeous surroundings. When the fall foliage is ablaze in color, the mountains' majesty rivals that of New England with every variation of yellow, red, orange, and russet imaginable. 
Completed in 1868, the "Mountain Magnolia" (then known as "Rutland") was
built by Civil War Colonel James Henry Rumbough for his wife Carrie and their
eight children. Colonel Rumbough's daughter Bessie married ex-president
Andrew Johnson's son at Rutland and the magnificent house was passed down
through the years to Miss Peggy Rumbough, granddaughter of the Colonel. In
the 1950's, "Miss Peggy" had the 2nd story as well as the 3rd story Tower
Room removed to "modernize" the look. Long-time residents of Hot Springs
still speculate that the change was actually made to rid the upper floors
(specifically the Tower Room) of the ghost of a woman descendent of Colonel
Rumbough's who had stood in the 3rd floor window watching as her child was
buried after losing the little girl to diphtheria. In 1996, Karen and Pete
Naugle (only the 3rd owners of the residence since Colonel Rumbough) restored
the home to its original splendor.
With more stars appearing than either of these city slickers had ever seen before, the inn-keeper, Karen Moore, and chef "Woody" Woods encouraged us to enjoy the remainder of the evening relaxing on the spacious front porch with pitchers of freshly brewed ice tea. As the sweet fragrance of the English flower garden permeated the pure mountain air, we tried to guess where the fireflies' light would appear next. The twilight sounds of the cicadas began to lull us to sleep. Closing my eyes, my mind drifted back to the days of my childhood when such simple pleasures were taken for granted. 
Day 2: Enthusiastically anticipating our planned rafting adventure down
the Pigeon River, we awoke early. Without all the city noises to use as a
means to tell the time without a clock, dawn comes slowly to these pristine
surroundings, punctuated only by the cries and chirps of the mountain birds.
A foggy mist lifted to reveal rope hammocks hung between the huge namesake
flowering magnolia trees, an impressively large water fountain, a Victorian
gazing ball, and a boxwood maze; just a few of the many charms waiting to be
discovered down the meandering walking paths of the estate.
Guests awoke to the smell of ham with a spicy mustard sauce, "adulterated" eggs, (the name is a Karen Moore original; you'll have to ask her about that), a fresh fruit medley, grits with all the fixings, and homemade biscuits. Served buffet style, the menu changes daily for guests who stay longer than several days.
A short hour and a half drive through a portion of the Appalachian Trail from Hot Springs (209) to Hartford, Tennessee (I-40) had the look and feel of a rain forest. Moss, ferns, hanging vines, and massive 60-foot tall trees that met overhead gradually gave way to small agricultural communities with dirt roads quaintly named "Fog Hollow," "Seldom Seen Lane," and "Panther Creek." We followed the signs to the rafting outpost and were welcomed by Glenn Goodrich, our river guide for the day. Any uneasiness I felt about the unfamiliar situation was quickly dispelled when Glenn reassured me that he had personally guided over 655 trips on the Upper Pigeon and French Broad rivers alone. With a twinkle in his eyes, he said that he had traded the fast pace of the computer industry that he had liked for the slower pace and beauty of the outdoor playground that he loved; a decision that he has never regretted. 
"USA Raft" is one of the largest and most diverse professional rafting companies in the East featuring over 200 highly skilled guides familiar with 9 rivers in 4 states. With a variety of trips to choose from ranging from leisurely float trips to thundering, world-class whitewater rapids, adventures are available for all age levels and experience. Our plans were to take 3 different rafting trips starting with the beginner "bunny" trip today on the dam-released Lower Pigeon River followed by the more adventurous Upper Pigeon in the afternoon. After building some confidence and expertise, the natural flowing French Broad River, located approximately half-way between Hot Springs and Asheville off Highway 25/70, was a river with Class 3 and 4 rapids; our ultimate goal for tomorrow. We learned that rapids range from Class 1, which would be comparable to violent splashing in the bathtub, all the way up to Class 6, a rendition of Niagara Falls. 
Families, first-timers, seniors, and younger children (8 years and older) will be delighted with the relaxed pace of the five mile long Lower Pigeon River trip. The waves were playful and the scenery spectacular as we wound our way through a river gorge bordered by the Cherokee National Forest on one side and the Great Smoky Mountains on the other. Suggested items to bring during and after your trip will vary depending on weather conditions and season; a phone call to USA Raft will insure that you're well prepared before leaving home. Definitely take a waterproof, throwaway camera. There will be many opportunities along the way for pictures of both the animal wildlife as well as the boat wildlife should a splash-fest occur between rafts! 
Being one step removed from a novice, the Upper Pigeon presented me with several near "out-of-boat" experiences throughout the rest of the afternoon. The trip starts out fast and ends fast with excitement throughout the five-mile stretch. I learned that the front of the raft was THE place to be for the more adventurous ride and that there was a skill to taking pictures while attempting to stay upright amongst rapids appropriately named "Snap Dragon," "Vegamatic," "Roller Coaster," and "Double Reactionary." Would I do it again? Ohhhhhhhhhhhh yeah!
Famished from our rafting adventure, we ate at the "Bridge Street Cafe" in Hot Springs for dinner before returning to the Mountain Magnolia Inn. Overlooking the Spring River, this elegant yet earthy restaurant features organically grown ingredients throughout its menu. Owner Gerri Barraco will be glad to offer suggestions although the grilled pizzas made in the wood-fired brick oven are superb as is the "Shrimp Trieste." Consisting of large shrimp sauteed with fennel, sun-dried tomatoes, mushrooms, and capers with a zesty garlic citrus sauce, it was apparent why this was one of the more popular house specialties. Sinfully decadent desserts are also available. Serenaded by the sounds of the rushing creek on the large outdoor deck, we dined under a full moon with a lacy canopy of trees overhead; an experience we won't soon forget. 
Day 3: The adventure I am most proud of during this vacation was my 9-mile trek down the French Broad River in my own "duckie." The "duckie" (or "ThrillKat") looks like a 1-person inflatable kayak with pontoons on each side to help the aerodynamically challenged, namely me! "Paddle left to go right" as well as "paddle right to go left" began to make more sense after some practice in the slower moving water. I was assigned lucky duckie #13, a number I was convinced would bring good fortune and it did! The exhilaration of conquering each rapid was multiplied since I had to rely on my own skill to be able to hit each of the Class 3 and 4 rapids head-on at a 90-degree angle to remain stable. Always encouraging, our USA Raft guides, Mitch Hampton and Mike Earley, did an excellent job as Father Ducks by gathering all the "duckies" together before each of the larger rapids to instruct us in the best way to approach each one. Fueled by a riverside lunch served by Mitch and Mike midway through the trip, we were ready to take on the grand finale of 6-foot "Needle Falls" immediately followed by the Class 4 "Frank Bell's Rapid," one of the Southeast's most talked about rapids. I can't even begin to describe the heart-pounding excitement I felt while guiding my duckie through the river's fast-paced twists, turns, and whirlpools. Imagine my surprise when I realized that I had actually accomplished that feat in an upright position! 
After such an adventure what could be more perfect than a 102-degree hot mineral water Jacuzzi in a private and secluded outdoor setting along the scenic Spring Creek and French Broad Rivers? Follow that with an hour-long massage by one of the nine trained masseurs/masseuses on staff at Gene Hicks' rustic "Hot Springs Spa" and you'll begin to feel the all-encompassing healing power of this magical environment. Mr. Hicks, the personification of a true Southern gentleman, bought and renovated the property in 1990 after 50 years of neglect. Long tied up in an estate battle, the hot springs were described as "an overgrown jungle of vegetation and crumbling structures." Mr. Hicks' tenacity paid off after he made personal visits to each of the relatives in several different states to purchase the property. Today the original structure still stands as a testimonial. Each of the 12 "pools" is drained, cleaned, and refilled with the natural hot springs after each use. Although all pools have an incredible view, ask for Pool #5. It is in a gem of a location overlooking the point where the two rushing rivers come together. Passing back through Asheville on our way back to Greenville-Spartanburg, we remembered a glowing dining recommendation given to us by one of our river guides: the upscale "Il Paradiso" Steak and Chop House. Managed by Frank Castelblanco, all steaks prepared by chef Broc Fountain are Certified Angus Beef and dry-aged three to four weeks resulting in an especially juicy and tender entree. With a demi-glace of cognac, shallots and cream, the "Steak Diane" was excellent as was the broiled "Double Montana Lamb Chop" topped with mint-orange butter. The staff was knowledgeable and attentive with a tasteful blend of fresh flowers, candlelight, tapestry walls, and stained glass separating the large, private booths adding to the pleasurable experience. The perfect end to a perfect vacation was the spumoni sprinkled with chocolate and raspberry syrup followed by a rich, dark cappuccino. Leafing through brochures as we drove back to the airport, we knew we had just scratched the surface of this year-round wonderland. After all, we had 7 other rivers to conquer! There was a "llama adventure in the Smoky Mountains" day trek! Maybe even a twilight excursion through the fall foliage on the steam-powered Mystery Theatre Dinner Train. We'll be back! And Regis, if you're reading: that IS our final answer. Photography courtesy of Paul M. For more reading on the South, check out Name dropping in the Carolinas, another exciting Been There story. Credits: |
Throughout the renovation process the
entire house was reconstructed under an air-inflated, plastic bubble-dome 80
feet long and 50 feet high to keep the weather out during the 3-year toil of
love. When the residents of Hot Springs learned of the Naugle's plans to
renovate the historic Victorian, many of the townspeople offered to help.
Suffering from cancer, one town resident donated the antique staircase
newel-post now located in the "Mountain Magnolia" downstairs hallway. As
they watched the re-building effort progress, others brought pictures and
folklore of the Madison County mansion that had been handed down from past
generations of Hot Springs residents. The 3rd story Tower Room today is used
for massage therapy available by appointment.
Taking our breakfast out to one of the wrought iron tables on the front
porch, we marveled at the expanse of mountain beauty with no other sign of
civilization apparent as far as the eye could see.